The glitz and glamor of the red carpet can be described as a dream world where fashion and luxury meet. The stunning gowns, the dapper suits, and the constant stream of photoshoots all combine to create a sense of wonder and exclusivity. From the outside, it’s hard not to be interested in everything on display. Whether you like it or not, you’re drawn in and you don’t want to miss a second.
Who wouldn’t want to be a part of this world of glitter and luxury, even if only for a moment? We’ve all dreamt about it at least once, posing for the paparazzi and happily rattling off the name of the designer we’re wearing. How amazing would it be to live that dream?
We live in a society where a movie premiere or awards ceremony without a red carpet is like a bicycle with one wheel. While it could work if everything about it was altered and turned into a unicycle instead, it’s tedious work that nobody wants to do. And why should they? High fashion keeps gifted designers employed, and they go on to create pieces that live on in archives or museums. Days and weeks after red carpet events, people will continue to talk about red carpet fashion, which brings more attention to the designers, and most ceremonies even give awards for the best dressed. What is so wrong with that?
Fashion accounts for roughly one-fifth of the 300 million tons of plastic produced globally each year. The fashion industry is one of the highest producers of waste, with a whopping 97 million tons of waste every year. In 2023 alone, that waste included 18 million tons of brand new, unused textiles, 2.5 million tons of harmful chemical waste, and 3 million tons of packaging materials.
Men are often conveniently left out of these discussions and there’s a good reason for that. For once, being boring might be a good thing. All they need to do is wear a suit that might be a different shade of black and they’re fine. They are very likely to even rewear their suits more than once, which is better for both the environment and for their wallets — although one could argue that money isn’t a problem for them if they’re already attending such events.
On the other hand,women who walk the red carpet are often the most extravagant and detailed, with hours of work and hundreds of thousands spent to create their dresses. They wear them, pose for pictures, and these dresses are never to be seen again.
The most recent event of such nature is the Africa Magic Viewers Choice Awards (AMVCAs), which saw dazzling dresses from different designers. The event was broadcasted live on all Africa Magic channels, with interviewers asking right there, “Who do you think is the best dressed tonight?” Nobody asked who had the most environmentally friendly outfit, but I suppose that would go to Toyin Lawani.
While the icon designed Caroline Hutchings and Eniola Ajao’s dresses, she decided on a different look entirely for her own AMVCA 2024 look. It was made from coffee sacks and, according to her, took only three hours to make. A testament of her skill. While her coffee sacks dress could be seen as making a case for sustainable fashion, it isn’t very practical and has no rewear value. One simply cannot make a case for the dress’ everyday use.
Still, it is a unique idea, much better than the plastic that currently plagues the fashion industry. Plastic in this case does not mean or refer to bottles, spoons and cups. It refers to petroleum-based synthetic fabrics like elastane (that is, spandex), polyester, nylon, neoprene and fleece. Most of our clothes – about two-thirds, to be exact – are made from synthetic fibers derived from petrochemicals. These fibers don’t break down naturally and can harm our environment.
To put it into perspective, every time we wash our clothes, hundreds of thousands of microfibers are released into our waterways, contributing to plastic pollution. While foreign fast fashion brands like Zara, H&M, and Forever 21 are major culprits, even high-end fashion, including red carpet gowns and shapewear, often rely on these synthetic fibers for their stretch and durability.
Another harmful material commonly used in fashion is PVC (polyvinyl chloride), which Greenpeace aptly refers to as ‘the poison plastic’. PVC has been linked to serious health issues, including cancer and infertility. Unfortunately, it’s still widely used in various fashion applications, such as sequins, vinyl, shoe heels, and even the plastic tubing found in handbag handles. This toxic material’s presence in our clothing and accessories is a pressing concern that needs to be addressed.
As it stands, red carpet fashion and sustainability just don’t mix. These outfits are usually designed for a single, glamorous appearance, without regard for the environmental impact of the materials used. They’re often impractical for everyday wear which is why they are worn only once, as re-wearing an outfit can be seen as fashion faux pas. Supposed style experts can spin all sorts of narratives as to why a celebrity would dare to rewear a dress, instead of seeing it as a good thing.
Worse still, some attendees even change into multiple outfits during the same event, switching from their red carpet look to a new ensemble for after-parties, further emphasizing the focus on fleeting fashion over sustainability.
Fashion brands view events like the AMVCAs as prime opportunities to showcase their designs, often paying actors significant amounts to wear their creations. While the high-end couture on display may be unaffordable for most consumers, the styles showcased are quickly replicated by fast fashion brands eager to capitalize on trends . These brands rapidly produce and market their own versions of these designs, making them available to the masses at a fraction of the cost, often within a matter of weeks or even days.
The extensive media coverage and hype surrounding fashion events like the AMVCAs make them significant trendsetters for the industry. However, this same attention also presents an opportunity to shift the conversation around fashion. Instead of solely focusing on the aesthetic appeal of the outfits worn, what if the post-event discussions also highlighted the sustainability features of the designs? Imagine if the next day’s ‘best and worst dressed’ lists also considered the environmental impact of the choices, sparking a new wave of conversation and awareness in the fashion world.
A focus on the sustainability characteristics of the “best” dressed would likely also pressure the fast fashion names to try and follow in any imitative outfits they produce, thus breaking the toxic cycle. Although the chances of this happening are quite slim, and the actions of one or two celebrities is far from enough to suddenly change things, small steps are better than no steps at all.